How to connect your kitchen cabinets


The following guide explains how to connect units together the correct way so that all your units line up perfectly.

Unpack your kitchen units and place them loosely in the kitchen where they will be situated. Once the cabinets are in position, level them up by using the adjustment on the kitchen unit feet. Now, clamp the units together as shown in the diagram below.

Clamp units together

Next drill the cabinets at top and bottom near to the front edge of the cabinet. The hole drilled needs to be diameter 5mm to suit the cabinet connector supplied in the fittings box.

Now fit the 2 part cabinet connectors in the drilled holes and tighten to secure the cabinets together.

Cabinet connectors

The video below also shows you how this done (36 seconds until 59 seconds).


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18 thoughts on “How to connect your kitchen cabinets”
  • Dan says:

    Good day to thee, DIY kitchens,

    I have a kitchen island from you, built up using three cabinets that sit side-by-side, and then one more cabinet that sits BEHIND these, i.e. It will be fixed to the back. I have used the advice on this page to fix together the cabinets that are side-by-side, however what is the best way to fix the cabinet on the back please? I can’t see any suitable surfaces for the “2 part cabinet connector” due to the protuding ‘side panels’ that are part of the 3 side-by-side cabinets. Essentially there is a gap between the 2 layers of cabinets that stop me using the connector. Hope that’s clear, happy to elaborate if needed.

    Thanks very much

    October 8, 2023 at 5:12 pm
    • DIY Kitchens says:

      Hi Dan, we advise to use a bit of timber in the gaps between the units to screw the units to.

      October 9, 2023 at 11:55 am
  • Dennis says:


    I received my kitchen (Luca Gloss Graphite) a few months ago, but couldn’t proceed with the fitting. I have since checked the units etc…and thankfully I think everything is okay. I do have one problem. There isn’t any fittings for connecting the cabinets together (5mm hole). I realise that I have had the kitchen for longer than the time allowed to check it over, and I’m aware that you are probably no longer obligated to act, although, as I haven’t seen them I would appreciate a description, or visual of what they are, or even if you have them in stock as a sales item.

    Please advise.

    D Harrison.

    July 1, 2022 at 7:54 pm
    • DIY Kitchens says:

      Hi, if you can raise a support ticket here and let the aftersales support team know how many unit connecting bolts you need and that they were missing, then they will be able to get some sent out to you.

      July 4, 2022 at 8:34 am
  • matthew webb says:

    hi do you remove doors and draw fronts before fitting units

    October 21, 2018 at 2:36 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi Matthew, the doors and drawers will need removing before you fit the units but they come off in a few seconds, as the simply clip on and off.

      October 22, 2018 at 9:52 am
      • matthew webb says:

        hi kitchen deliverd friday one wall end panel has a paint fault,also no screws with handles

        October 30, 2018 at 12:06 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi Matthew, apologies for the issues that you have experienced with your kitchen. Please create a support ticket below and the Aftersales team will get this rectified for you.

        October 30, 2018 at 12:47 pm
      • Helen Lewis says:

        Any particular advice for removing the large pan drawers before fitting the units?
        Given that they’re described as ‘factory fitted’ we don’t want to damage the mechanism, or the drawers, in taking them out. Many thanks.

        January 16, 2019 at 5:18 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi Helen, to remove the pan drawers, you pull the drawers upwards then towards you to remove them. The mechanisms are really strong & secure and the drawers can hold 50kg of weight in each one of them

        January 16, 2019 at 5:28 pm
  • Neil ritchie says:

    Hi ive got 2 tall larder units (malton alabaster) 1970x 300 and a 1000 x 290 top box which will surround an american style fridge freezer.
    My fridge is deeper than the units and protrudes, is this normal or do people put a false wall behind units to kick them out flush with the fridge?
    Also the top box is not as deep as my tall units so if i fasten to the wall it will be stepped back, is it ok to fasten the tallunits to the wall and then fasten the top box flush to the front of these secured/bolted through the cabinets rather than hung on the wall?

    November 19, 2016 at 2:47 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, the fridge will always be deeper than the units and is supposed to be fitted like this as the protrusion of the fridge will allow the doors to be opened without clashing on the units surrounding it.

      The top box would generally be brought forward to run in line with the fronts of the larders and screwed to each larder for support.

      Here is an example:

      American Fridge

      Here is another one:

      American Fridge Example

      November 20, 2016 at 12:01 pm
  • chris duckett says:

    Can you confirm or deny that you will supply all wall brackets for wall units and base units.
    chris duckett

    February 1, 2016 at 5:25 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, we supply wall brackets in the fittings box that comes with your new kitchen. These brackets are 2 pieces that are attached together that snap in half for when you attach them to the wall. We do not supply base unit wall brackets, just connecting bolts to attach each base unit to each other.

      February 2, 2016 at 10:27 am
      • Helen Lewis says:

        Given the considerable weight of the wall units, I am more than a bit concerned that just 4 screws, 2 in each bracket, will hold the cupboard up! What length screws do you advise please? Is it possible to further fix the wall units with additional screws lower down the unit, once the cupboard id fixed onto the brackets? Thanks very much for your help.

        January 16, 2019 at 5:15 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi Helen, nearly all wall units are done this way, screwed into plasterboard with the 2 wall support brackets. For the wall hanging brackets, you need 2 1/2″ long screws with a 10mm head. Some walls also have battons in or wooden supports that the screws can go into. other walls have breeze blocks behind them. If you have any of these then you can fix into these for even more piece of mind.

        If needed, you could also use some L-shaped brackets at the bottom of the units, to secure them even further to the wall.

        January 16, 2019 at 5:25 pm
  • Lizzie Birkett says:

    If I have ordered a Linwood base unit with hinges on the left and want to change it, is that possible?
    My son-in-law is a carpenter.


    January 21, 2015 at 10:22 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:


      Please contact the sales team on 01977 608 418 to see if they can amend your order or offer advice.

      January 22, 2015 at 8:04 am
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