Measuring up is the perfect starting point when planning your new kitchen.
Taking some time to create an accurate plan will make the rest of your project run smoothly. Ensure you double check your dimensions at a couple of heights around your walls, if in doubt always plan your kitchen around the smallest dimension. Check ceiling heights and how level walls and floors are. Make a note of the location of your gas, electricity and water supplies and remember to use a qualified tradesmen if you intend to move or alter these.
Don’t forget, if you have a problem area to plan around, all of our cabinets can be ordered dry assembled in needed, and put together on site!
What you’ll need:
- Tape measure
- Spirit level
- Notepad & pen
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You say above 2400 is the minimum required for the 2300 units… our ceiling is 2380 high and we intend to finish the cabinet with the pelmet instead of cornice.
A) will we be able to use a 2300 unit at all? Or is this ceiling just too low?
B) will this work with the pelmet?
Looking at Carerra range. It’s not actually for our kitchen, I’m looking at installing cabinets in our snug.
Hi Katie, the recommended ceiling height for the extra tall units is 2370mm. This is to ensure there is enough clearance for the units to be lifted upright and then the legs fitted once the unit is upright.
You could request 100mm legs instead of 150mm legs as standard – make a note on the units on the order. Please bear in mind that the plinth only comes as 150mm in height, so this will need to be cut down to suit.
Carrera pelmet is 25mm in height. – If you are intending to fill the gap between the top of the unit and the ceiling, we would recommend using filler panels to do this.
Our ceiling height is also 2400 and we are looking at the 2300 tall units in millington range would we then be able to get a cornice to fit?
Hi Suzanne, the units are 2300mm high with legs and the cornice is 102mm high, which equals 2402mm. With the units at 2300mm high, the cornice would not fit. The legs can reduce down to 90mm at their lowest, which would give you clearance and would technically fit, if you did this. Considerations to think about, if you do this?
(1) The wall units would need to be lowered to line up with the new height for the tops of the tall units.
(2) All your plinths would need cutting down to fit under the units.
Thank you. What else would you recommend to finish the top of the cabinets. Can we use pelmets to give a straight finish??
Hi Suzanne, lots of people do use the pelmet material at the tops of units to frame them as well. Here is an example and it looks really nice too.
My kitchen is 2400 high. Will the 2300 units rotate to standing with the leg height reduced and then lengthen again once it’s upright?
Hi Matt, yes, that ceiling height would be fine as its the minimum recommended ceiling height ti have with 2300mm high units. Usually you would tilt them into place with the legs fitted.
Our wall units appear to be 280-290mm deep and we want to add to these, you don’t seem to do these sizes, would we need to replace them all or are we not measuring them correctly?
Hi, our wall units are 300mm deep (measured from the wall to the front of the unit). You want at least 300mm to ensure that you can get your dinner plates in them.
Are the dimensions for the all the units taken from the external faces of the carcass or internal faces?
Thanks in advance
Hi, the dimensions are all taken from external edges. So, if you ordered a 600mm wide wall unit, that is the exact amount of space required on your wall.
i want to fit a recess with kitchen units and my large fridge and freezer the depth of the recess and my fridge and freezer is 570mm do you make units this size?
We sell integrated fridge/freezer housings below. These will not house a freestanding fridge/freezer though.
All our tall units and base units are 560mm deep with around a 20mm door giving a total depth of a round 580mm. So you maybe OK.
Here is an example of a freestanding fridge/freezer being integrated with the design of the kitchen.
If you want to fill a recess bigger than 580 deep and put your freestanding fridge freezer in there then you would need to bring all your tall units forward so that your fridge/freezers fits in, get an oversized worktop (if you have any base units) to cover any gap at the back and get some big end panels on the units either side of the fridge freezer and an end panel at the end of the kitchen run that can cover any gaps that may be present.
I am trying to ascertain how far from the walls the front edge of a worktop, and the front face of the doors would be. I have the following questions relating to this theme.
1) What is the recommended overhang for a solid wood worktop on a shaker style cabinet?
2) What is the recommended distance between the back of a cabinet and a wall?
3) I have some existing central heating pipework which sits proud of the wall, can this be incorporated into the built in void that features in your cabinets?
4) What is the best way to marry up a worktop with an uneven wall surface? (in this case, old brickwork).
5) Do the dimensions of your cabinets include the doors?
Many thanks in advance
Hi, answers to your questions are below.
2, Units fit directly to the wall
3, There is a 42mm void on the base units and 17mm on the wall units
4, If it is wood or laminate it needs scribing to the shape of the wall.
5, No. The base units and tall units are 560 deep and the wall units are 300. You then need to add on the thickness of the doors 18mm-22mm.
Do you offer a free design service ? I have had design from benchmarx but your prices seem very reasonable
Hi, we don’t offer a design service but if you have a plan of your kitchen and units required, then you can send this to firstname.lastname@example.org to obtain a quote.
On your kitchen planner you have base unit cut outs with “voids” shown. What are these voids, please?
A very good question and one that warrants a lengthy response. Rather than write it here, I created a page for you and for others to read on kitchen service voids and why they are needed.
I hope this helps