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Panels, features & accessories

 

Panels features and accessoriesWe offer a comprehensive range of plinths, panels & accessories in cabinet and door material.

Cabinet material accessories are more cost effective than door material accessories but are not recommended/suitable for use with all door styles. Please note: some products are only available in door material.

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Simply download the Kitchen Planner PDFs here and start measuring up slotting units into position.

Don’t forget to plan in your service voids on corner units and think about the space needed for corner posts so that all your drawers and kitchen units can open without any obstructions.

85 thoughts on “Panels, features & accessories”
  • Aradhana says:

    Hi,

    If we get the coloured carcasses do we still need end panels? We want Clayton Dove Grey doors and the light grey carcass

     
    April 16, 2020 at 11:08 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi Aradhana, the carcases are very similar to the doors but not 100% identical. It would be worth ordering a free door and carcase sample here, so that you can see how they look in the light of day. The “Which Cupboards Need End Panels” article is a good rad on this subject.

       
      April 16, 2020 at 2:36 pm
  • Rebecca Maughan says:

    We will be installing a freestanding American fridge freezer inbetween two tall larder units. Do you recommend installing end panels to the sides of larder units that will face the fridge freezer?

     
    July 11, 2018 at 3:56 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi Rebecca, we recommend cutting a tall end panel in half to use either side of the american fridge freezer. This gives a framed look. Lighting pelmet is always a good product to use either side of the appliance which is 50mm thick, to cover any gaps

       
      July 12, 2018 at 8:19 am
  • Rowena King says:

    I have a walk in larder unit and need to fit a side panel, as at the moment we can just see the carcass material, but this would leave a gap between the original side of the unit and the doors. How do we fit an end panel the side? Also the doors don’t fit together properly. The bottom doors sit slightly under the top doors – are we supposed to join them together somehow as we don’t need a top and bottom door to open independently.
    Another problem we have a row of drawer line units going all the way around the kitchen but some of the drawers don’t line up. Is it possible to adjust them in someway so they are all at the same level?
    We have also missed off 2 side panels from our order. Are we able to have these delivered or do we have to pick these up?

     
    November 3, 2017 at 9:37 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, the best thing to do is to create a support ticket below and the Aftersales team will be able to help you with all your questions and advise you on ordering your missing items.
      https://www.diy-kitchens.com/myorder/

       
      November 6, 2017 at 6:40 am
  • Natalia says:

    Hi, I am planning to buy Painted shaker style kitchen from your website, and have few questions. I will have dishwasher right at the end and wonder what do I need to get to box it off apart from the end panel. It is fully integrated and I am also ordering the recommended door for the front. Similarly I will have a wine cooler at the other end, so the same question will the end panel be enough.? Another issue with the wine cooler is that it will not be again the wall at the back, so presume I will need another end panel ?

     
    October 19, 2017 at 7:44 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, when using an appliance on the end of a run you will just need to use an end panel to cover the side of the appliance, depending on what the appliance is you may need to use an integrated appliance door, which will attach to the front of the appliance such as a dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, under counter fridge and under counter freezers.

       
      October 20, 2017 at 4:19 pm
      • Sam says:

        I am in the same position as Natalia – I have an integrated dishwasher on the end of an island. If I were to use an end panel to hide the DWsides, it would break up the plinth run. Is there another way to cover this and keep the bottom edge looking tidy?

         
        November 17, 2017 at 10:27 am
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi, when using a dishwasher on the end of a run, you will need to use a base end panel to cover the side. You will not need to use another base end panel down the inside of the appliance unless you are using two appliances directly next to each other.

        For Example
        If you are using a Dishwasher then a high line base unit you will only need to use an end panel on the very end of the run, you will not need to use an end panel between the appliance and the unit.

        If you are using a Dishwasher then a Washing Machine, you will need to use a base end panel on the very end of a run and down the middle of the two appliances, the only way to get around the end panel breaking the plinth up would be to cut the end panel around the plinth.

         
        November 17, 2017 at 12:36 pm
      • Sam says:

        Thanks for the reply, but what I meant was the plinth run on the *side* of the dishwasher, not to the front. In a perfect world, the island would have door-matching panels all round, and plinth all round, so it looks seamless. Can this be done?

         
        November 17, 2017 at 12:53 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi, the side is what is being referred to. The neatest and recommend method is to put an end panel on the side (or use doors to create a matching look on the sides) and only have plinth on the front run and back run if needed (unless using end panels on the back as well). The image below shows an end panel capping off the end of an island.

        Island End Panel

        For any further clarification, our sales team are available to speak to on 01977 608 418.

         
        November 17, 2017 at 1:20 pm
      • Sam says:

        Thank you – It’s that look I’m trying to avoid – where the island is just finished with a slab of end-panel down to the floor. I’d like to use a door, so I either need to use a 720h door and then finish off below somehow (hence my question), or find a door that 850ish high. Sounds like it’s too tricky.

        A have another finishing-related question please – as you sound knowledgeable! Are the modern cornice pieces finished on three sides… and so it’s just the side with the groove that has exposed MFC?

         
        November 17, 2017 at 1:35 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        If you are using slab doors like Luca & Altino then you can order larger doors and cut them down and get the same great effect but if you are using shaker doors then it gets a little harder, as you start to lose the shaker frame top/bottom of the door.

        With regards to your last question about cornice, you would be best to speak to our product specialists on 01977 608 418 to get the answer about the finish on the cornice as they have access to the items.

         
        November 17, 2017 at 2:02 pm
  • John says:

    Hi we are currently fitting an end panel to a tall larder unit which will then be attached to a base unit and a wall hung unit. What fittings are used to attach the end panel to the larder unit as I don’t want the screw heads to be visible ?

     
    September 26, 2017 at 8:54 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, we do not supply fittings for fixing the end panels to units. We recommend using screws to fix the end panel to the unit from the inside of the unit, giving a clean finish on the outside pf the end panel, with no visible screw heads.

       
      September 27, 2017 at 11:10 am
  • Jo Francis says:

    Hi,
    We are putting a range cooker into our island in the middle of the kitchen. It will have a pan drawer behind it and to the left hand side but the right hand side of the range will be at the end of the island. Is it possible to have an end panel and a bottom plinth running along the cupboard that is behind it and the exposed edge of the range? Its a rangemaster so doesn’t have any where to attach the end panel as you would on a cupboard.

     
    January 28, 2017 at 1:12 pm
  • Simon says:

    Hi,

    I have a clayton mussel kitchen and am in the process of fitting the pelmets. I have the plain lighting pelmets. These have a square profile with a groove running down the middle. A couple of quick questions:

    1. Are these usually fitted flush to the edge of the door or to the edge of the carcass? My end panels are fitted to flush to the edge of the door
    2. Which way up do the go? If they’re level with the door then the groove needs to go on the bottom otherwise you’ll see it when the door is open..

    Thanks,

    Simon

     
    May 16, 2016 at 4:48 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, pelmets sit in line with the carcase, and the groove either sits facing the wall or sits joined to the carcase, depending on which way you use the pelmet.

       
      May 23, 2016 at 1:12 pm
  • John grant says:

    Morning , I’m fitting wall cupboards up and now have got to fit a spacer panel in between the end of the double cupboard and the half cupboard that goes above the hob.Do I fit it flush to the carcase or do I bring it out I line with the door fronts ,as this I fill would look wrong along the line of the cupboards ????

     
    April 3, 2016 at 9:44 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, it is standard to fit end panels flush with the doors but not obligatory, you can of course finish them flush with the carcase. Fillers would generally be fitted flush with the carcase edge. By making an L shaped filler, they can be made to finish flush with the doors if so desired.

       
      April 5, 2016 at 8:21 am
  • Tom Davidson says:

    Hi there,
    I recently purchased a Broadoak Kitchen, which I am very pleased with and I am at the finishing stages of fitting.
    Within the units supplied I have a tall appliance housing unit, for single oven and microwave which is supplied with an additional drawer front for trimming to size as a infill panel above the appliances.
    Can you advise on the best way of cutting and finishing.
    I’m assuming either router or saw cut with chamfer dressed after cutting, but I’m concerned that I will be left a cut and chamfered edge, untreated whereas the drawer front appears to have a treatment (either lacquer or wax).
    Any advice on cutting and finishing treatment would be appreciated

     
    January 7, 2016 at 8:27 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, cut it with either a router or a saw, a table saw would be best to obtain a straight clean edge, then sit the raw edge on top of the appliance so you don’t see the raw edge, you can rub some polish or wax on if you want as long as it doesn’t contain silicone.

       
      January 7, 2016 at 11:53 am
  • julie says:

    HI. can you let me know the measurement of the 900 x 600 inframe base end panel –
    depmi. need to work out the total measurement so need to know how thick the wood panel is thanks

     
    December 19, 2015 at 3:26 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, the Harewood and Milton panels are both 19mm thick, if they purchase the door material panels. All carcase panels are 18mm thick.

       
      January 5, 2016 at 12:50 pm
  • Theresa Boyle says:

    I have a couple of questions.
    1) can you use dark carcasses with White handleless cupboard doors. I am thinking about a tall bank of units in adarker coloured doors than the rest of the units and thought it would tie them in better.
    2) do your handleless units need a cornice?
    3) can I mix Remo elm cupboards (for tall bank) and Remo gloss for the rest of the kitchen

     
    November 21, 2015 at 7:26 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      With regards to carcase colour & door combinations like Remo Elm & gloss, you can choose any colours that you want to. A kitchen design is bit like a work of art where you are free to create something completely original and unique to your home. If you have any doubts then we also have a sample service where you can order some door styles and carcase material examples to help you make your choice below.

      https://www.diy-kitchens.com/samples/

      With regards to cornice on the handless range, cornice and pelmet are completely at your discretion. Have a look at our Luca kitchens in our real customer kitchens section below to see some kitchens with and without it.

      https://www.diy-kitchens.com/customer-reviews/

       
      November 23, 2015 at 12:19 pm
  • jackie gray says:

    I am thinking about buying a white gloss kitchen but not sure whether to go for an lacquer finish or acrylic, what do you advise ? Also not too sure what end panels I will need. Do I need an end panel for a tall unit if the unit is at the end of the run ? Also wall units do I need decor panels and cornice,plinths for these too.

     
    November 3, 2015 at 9:01 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      Both the lacquered and acrylic high gloss doors are hard wearing and are really down to personal choice. The page below will give you more information on them.

      https://advice.diy-kitchens.com/customer-questions/can-you-explain-what-the-kitchen-door-materials-are/

      If you opt for a gloss kitchen then end panels are advised as the units are matt white so you would need end panels either side of your extractor on the wall units, on tall units where the tall side meets a base unit. At the end of a run, you could use some plinth material as a filler.

      If available in your door style, decor end panels are optional as too are cornice and pelmet BUT plinth really is essential to cover the legs of the base units.

       
      November 4, 2015 at 7:40 am
  • Clare says:

    Hi
    I’m looking to have a Linwood painted Microwave/ double oven unit at the end of a run of base units(at an open end) I assume I need full length painted end panels at each side of this unit ?

    Also what is the difference between the 2 end panels that are available – I know one is 19mm and the other 25 mm but is there any time it’s more appropriate to use the thicker one ? ( I see it mentions being painted part on the rear face)
    Thank you

     
    September 24, 2015 at 3:39 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, yes you will need 2 end panels, the only difference regarding the thickness is that the 25mm ones give the kitchen an inframe look.

       
      September 25, 2015 at 8:10 am
      • Clare says:

        Thank you.

        So looking at the photo of the oak kitchen above which has 2 end panels- am I right to think these would be the thicker ones ? If the thinner ones were used like this in a painted kitchen you would have the inside section at floor/plinth level that wouldn’t be painted , which would obviously look a bit odd ?
        ( I hope that makes sense )

         
        September 25, 2015 at 10:20 am
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi,

        With the Innova range of kitchens (including Linwood), all our end panels are completely sprayed on both sides. It’s only the Second Natures ones that have a 100mm painted strip on the inside edge, which is enough to go to the floor and any exposed bits from the floor up will have the paint visible.

         
        September 25, 2015 at 11:38 am
  • Ed says:

    Hi,

    I’m looking into a design of an island to match an existing Milbourne Alabaster kitchen. I’d like to use full depth and shalow base units back to back for an overall island depth of around 900mm. Can you let me know what options there are for covering the end of the island? I see that there are feature end posts available for this style, but from the drawing its not clear to me how these work. Do you have any images of this post or other suggestions on how to hide the joint?

    Thanks.

     
    September 22, 2015 at 8:04 pm
  • Peter Mellor says:

    On each side of a Cornell Classic Top Box will be 900mm high units with hinged doors. The Alabaster end panels will be visible. Can I replace these end panels with Cornell Classic panels? What if the hinge side is on this panel?

     
    August 18, 2015 at 6:41 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, the additional door matched panels are planted on to the alabaster carcase sides. You do not have to run the panel up to 900mm height, you can cut the panel to size and run it up to the underneath of the top box. The units are supplied pre built so it is a difficult task, with expertise required, to try and remove the carcase side panel so as to replace with the Cornell panel, which would then require drilling for shelves and hinge plates.

       
      August 19, 2015 at 9:47 am
  • Angela Clowe says:

    I am not wanting to add any end panels as broadoak doesn’t seem to need them. However I have freestanding appliances so will need to return plinth. I have looked at your info on this but am still wondering how it will infact look. Obviously the front plinth will go edge to edge of the cupboard but be set back a few inches. How will the side return look. Will it sit behind the front plinth and will if be flush with the side of the cupboard or set back? I will also be looking to buy some plinth edging, am I right in thinking I will need approx. 150mm for each edge that shows?

     
    August 14, 2015 at 9:05 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, you have almost answered your own question. Run the plinth under the units and finish level with the end of the last unit. The return plinth fits flush with the side of the cabinet and covers the edge of the long plinth. The return plinth will require edging tape on the front edge to finish off. The plinths that you can use are the carcase material plinths 150mm high to complement your carcase colour.

       
      August 17, 2015 at 12:45 pm
      • Angela Clowe says:

        so looking from the front, the side plinth will be completely stuck out from the side of the unit and would need edging strip on short front edge and top long edge? do you have a picture or diagram to show this?

         
        August 17, 2015 at 2:50 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Here is an example (looks better from the front) of the plinth that is visible to the kitchen running right up to the end of the last unit and the return plinth butting up to the back of the front piece of plinth. In this example, the large piece of plinth is edged on the right hand side. Or, you can cut the large front piece of plinth so that it ends about 18mm from the end of the last unit, and use the return plinth to butt up the side of the front plinth and then edge the front exposed side of the return plinth (looks better from the side). If you have any offcuts of plinth at the moment, just offer them up to the side of the units and see which way you prefer. Return Plinth

         
        August 18, 2015 at 7:38 am
  • phil greene says:

    hi there. I have ordered a Luca matt white corner post with my kitchen.
    I have gas meter in the corner of the kitchen so i don’t have a true corner unit.
    Instead one side is to be a 600mm base unit with door and the other a integrated door on a washing machine. I have approx 30mm space left for the corner post on both runs (i.e in the corner). The corner post is 70mm each side isn’t it? Can this be cut down at the corner and then screwed together to allow this reduction as i have seen some Luca versions with a minimal corner overhang as there are no handle. Hope this makes sense.
    Phil

     
    August 5, 2015 at 1:27 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      The corner post is 70x70mm. On the handleless ranges we would say that you need “at least” a 25mm corner post, this should not pose any issues and would give you the line to follow with your next door. You can cut it down and this page may be of some use to you.

      https://advice.diy-kitchens.com/customer-questions/how-to-fit-a-luca-corner-post/

      Here is an example of someone’s corner post that has been adapted and touched up with touch up paint.

      Cut down Luca corner post

       
      August 6, 2015 at 10:57 am
  • Liam says:

    Where a run of cupboards meets a wall should I include a filler panel between the last unit and the wall? This would be for a ‘lay-on’ door style kitchen.

    Also, for your Broad Oak Natural / Lancaster Oak combination is it recommended to use end panels, i.e. how well do the doors and carcasses match?

    Thanks

     
    June 14, 2015 at 10:02 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Where a run of cupboards meets a wall the use of a filler is entirely optional. A filler will reduce the chances of a door handle clashing with the wall. Without a filler, you will become accustomed with the risk of banging the handle on the wall and open the unit appropriately. Handless doors would not have this issue.

       
      June 15, 2015 at 12:49 pm
      • Liam says:

        Could you also comment on my other query? Thanks

         
        June 15, 2015 at 7:40 pm
      • Diy Kitchens says:

        Hi, sorry for missing the other bit off. The Broadoak Natural Door & Lancaster Oak Carcase is a 5* excellent match for the door, you would get away with not using an end panel. If you are using cornice or pelmet though we do advise ordering this in door material. To be 100% sure in your decision, you can order a door and unit sample from the page below.

        https://www.diy-kitchens.com/samples/

         
        June 16, 2015 at 7:03 am
  • Melanie says:

    We are purchasing a mussel Harwood kitchen and wanted to know how filler panels work and if I need them. We want the oven (range style) to be slightly deeper than the rest of the units and wanted to know how we get this effect.

     
    June 12, 2015 at 8:32 pm
  • Ewa says:

    Hello,

    I bought the Cornell Classic units, almost everything has been fitted but cornice panels. Could you advise us please, how the cornice panels should be properly fitted. How to do it? Is any video on your website or pictures with instructions or guides?

    I will appreciate your help

    Kind regards
    Ewa

     
    June 11, 2015 at 10:07 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, there are different style of cornice. Basically they need securing with screws. On the traditional style of cornice there is a flat lip that sits on top of the wall units that you screw through from above. If you do not have enough room at the top of your units to screw down then you can screw up through the carcase but you will see the screw head when opening the cupboard, so be discreet with the screws. An experienced kitchen installer will be able to offer alternative advice depending on your requirements.

       
      June 15, 2015 at 1:22 pm
  • lynn says:

    End panel problem:- I would like to have the same colour on the inside edge of a run of units that have an oven housing one end, then lower base units and a larder the other end. It appears that the panels may not come long enough. If the oven housing is 2120 tall and the base unit next to it is 720 + 150 legs + 20mm worktop, what length would you recommend I buy please? I’m lokking at Lucca Grey gloss handleless units. Thank you.

     
    June 3, 2015 at 10:37 am
  • Anne Berry says:

    Thank you for that – also if I am putting my freestanding tumble dryer and washing machine between units do they need speial end panels or can they go straight next to the units

     
    May 26, 2015 at 2:51 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, your appliances can go straight into the gaps of the units. As you have gloss doors on the units though, you may be able to see the sides of the units, which are in a matt finish. If the appliances fit quite snug then you might not see much of the sides. Structurally, you do not need to have end panels but some people do put them in for a uniform look.

      Please bear in mind that end panels are around 20mm thick, you will need to consider this if you do use them as you’ll need to make sure the gap between your units is big enough to accommodate the appliance.

       
      May 27, 2015 at 8:08 am
  • Anne Berry says:

    I am interested in the luca white gloss kitchen I am planning for a complete wall to wall run of floor to ceiling units with my existing amrican fridge freezer in the centre. If the larder cabinets run wall to wall do I need to allow a gap at each end to accomodate the doors and if so do I need fillers at the end. Also on the luca cabinets do the ends match the doors or do I need special end panels.

     
    May 24, 2015 at 4:36 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, it would be best to leave a gap at each end of the run. To make fillers, you can just order an extra length of plinth as this would match your door. With a gloss, you would need end panels as the units are finished in a matt finish.

       
      May 26, 2015 at 9:47 am
  • eric says:

    Is there a video for fitting cooker hoods

     
    May 4, 2015 at 1:56 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      I’m sorry but we do not have any videos on fitting cooker hoods.

       
      May 18, 2015 at 10:55 am
  • sheena cove says:

    Hi
    Can you tell me if base end panels are needed either side of a free standing cooker or is the cabinet end sufficient?

    Thanks

     
    April 23, 2015 at 12:16 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, there is no set rule as it is personal preference really, as you only see the front edge and a little bit on the side. If you don’t want any end panels, you will have to return the plinth down the sides or cut it as near to the cooker as you can.

       
      April 23, 2015 at 2:36 pm
  • David says:


    I’m a little worried about chipping or cracking the acrylic on Altino White end panels when I cut them to size. Is any special technique or tool required or would a jigsaw or circular saw be ok?

     
    April 15, 2015 at 7:27 am
  • Ken Lees says:

    Staying on the subject of end panels how & with what type of saw (hand /jig?) do you recommend Luca Gloss panels are cut to size to minimise the risk of damaging the surface?

     
    November 12, 2014 at 8:54 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      A jigsaw with a new blade would be fine, alternatively a router would be good. Place some masking tape down first to help prevent any splintering.

       
      November 13, 2014 at 12:40 pm
  • Dennis Wright says:

    I have a number of cabinets where I need to attach finished end panels on my Luca White Gloss kitchen which is currently on order. Can these panels not be incorporated into the original construction of the cabinets so that there is no additional protusion beyond the line of the cabinet. Failing that, is it recommended that the front edge of the finish end panel is flush with the front face of the cabinet or can it protrude so that it is flush with the front face of the door?

     
    October 5, 2014 at 10:11 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      With regards to your question, unfortunately we are not able to incorporate the panel into the original construction of the units.
      What you would need to do is as follows.

        Request the unit dry assembled
        Take off the blanking panel
        Attach your end panel

      In answer to your other question, it is recommended that the front edge of the end panel be flush with the doors.

       
      October 7, 2014 at 9:24 am
  • Graham Hobson says:

    I have all but completed my order for a Livorna White kitchen but I am confused by the end panels.

    Is a decorative end panel used to replace the exposed carcase panel of a unit or is it simply attached on the end?

    If it is a replacement presumably any hinge fitting cutouts will need to be made in the panel.
    If not a replacement what do you do about the extra 18mm face exposed at the front?

     
    August 27, 2014 at 10:31 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      A decorative or standard end panel is used at the end of an exposed unit, only if the unit colour does not match or fit well with the current door colour. End panels are not always needed. There are no hinge fittings on end panels and the edges are all finished and match the colour of your doors.

      I hope this helps.

       
      August 28, 2014 at 11:01 am
  • Alex says:

    Hi, I am trying to plan an inflame kitchen and am not sure what pull out accessories I would need to order. i know that the aperture for in frame doors is smaller than for doors which aren’t in frame so I am guessing that pull out larders , wire trays etc would need to be ordered smaller than usual? Is there a guide anywhere on your site?
    Thanks

     
    August 15, 2014 at 1:04 pm
  • louise blanford says:

    I am looking to put a unit then a free standing washing machine then a unit again. I am told I need end panels as well as the units to hold up the laminate over the washing machine. Is this correct. what is the difference between your base end panel and the Malton base end panel

     
    July 26, 2014 at 7:27 am
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      If your kitchen units match the colour of your doors then no end panels would be needed. If the kitchen units are a different colour to the doors then some people fit end panels to give a uniform look to the kitchen. If your washing machine fits snugly into the gap then it really is your choice if you want end panels in there or not as you would never see the sides of the other units.

      With regards to the worktop, the units would hold the weight of the laminate worktops and this weight is distributed across them all, so adding 2 thin end panels to take the weight of the laminate is not really going to help that much.

      With regards to your other question, end panels are sometimes available in door material and carcase material. The recommendation on which one to use is shown on the page.

      I hope this helps

       
      July 28, 2014 at 10:00 am
  • Immy says:

    Im just about to order my kitchen, but the end panels are confusing me…

    What size would i order for the standard base unit size H 720mm D 560mm Legs: 150mm

    Also for the wall units i’m ordering (horizontal bi-fold H 720 D 300mm)

    Thanks

     
    July 19, 2014 at 3:41 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi, the end panel for a standard unit always comes a little larger, so that it can be cut down to fit your kitchen perfectly. The size of a standard base unit end panel would be 900mm x 600mm. Please note that end panels are available in door and carcase material. Please ensure you choose the correct end panel so that they match the finish of the doors.

       
      July 21, 2014 at 12:10 pm
  • Terry says:

    I am trying to order an inflame kitchen – oak carcass and all white 2005 painted doors.
    1. I need an oven housing for a 60×60 single oven and 450×60 combo oven and cannot identify the correct size as the web site does not break down product sizes (e.g. bottom door, top door, aperture size) which should I be purchasing?
    2. If I order standard plinths etc in white how well will they match the doors?
    Terry

     
    April 15, 2014 at 8:26 am
  • Adam says:

    Hi,

    I am planning to put a tongue and groove end panel (EOGP24) at the end of a run of base units. I have seen your feature radius end panels (EOBFEP890) and wondered whether they would be suitable to use to help finish the tongue and groove end panels?

     
    February 11, 2014 at 1:38 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi,

      Good question. I just spoke with the Sales Manager and he said yes, you are correct. The (EOBFEP890) panel can be used to finish the tongue and groove end panel. We will try and get this question turned into and article on here very soon to help visualise this better.

       
      February 11, 2014 at 3:16 pm
      • Adam says:

        Great! Thank you for your help!

         
        February 11, 2014 at 3:28 pm
  • Rose says:

    How good a match are the shelley stone grey cabinets and doors? Will the plinths/ panels be ok in the cabinet colour?

     
    August 20, 2013 at 3:13 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi Rose,

      The cabinets and doors are a great match but we recommend you buy your plinths in Door Material to exactly match the finish of your chosen door style. There is a small orange (D) in the corner of the boxes that shows which items are made from door material as shown on the page below.

      https://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/plinths-panels-and-accessories/plinths/

      I hope this helps.

       
      August 21, 2013 at 9:15 am
  • Cathy Cook says:

    Are the Shelley kitchen doors in-frame and what are they made of? I couldn’t find them in the sample list.

     
    August 1, 2013 at 3:08 pm
    • Diy Kitchens says:

      Hi there,

      Shelly doors are an imitation in-frame and are vinyl wrapped MDF.

       
      August 1, 2013 at 3:52 pm
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